Four Go RTW

After a short 2 hour transfer we arrived in Phuket – we elected to stay in Phuket Town as we had just come from the beach and were headed out to another beach a couple of days later. We checked into a new ‘boutiquey’ hotel called the Bhukitta which was just right, and close to a couple of places to eat etc. Not that we had long to settle – we were picked up at 9am the next day for our trip out to the islands of the Phang Nga area . As we approached the islands the view was stunning, we then climbed into the dinghy and were taken into a hong – the interior ‘room’ of one of the limestone karsts in this area. The theory is that erosion causes the island to collapse in the middle creating a unique ecosystem, only accessible at low tide through a series of tunnels. Very quiet and beautifully still. We then found a deserted beach to have lunch on, before exploring some more islands. Having decided to miss Ha Long Bay in Vietnam (as we thought the trip was be rather tedious for the girls, plus we knew we would come this far south in Thailand) we were glad it was so impressive – in fact one of the girls on the boat with us said ‘Oh, it’s just like Ha Long Bay!’

Phang Nga scenery:

Barely time to rest back at the Bhukitta and we were picked up again the following morning at 7.30am for a lift to the docks to hop on the ferry. We had been a bit apprehensive about managing this with the kids and the luggage, but no worries – as we stepped on the boat someone grabbed the bags off us, and someone else lifted both the girls aboard (we are going to miss service like this :-P). All safely stowed in the air-con cabin we headed off to Ko Phi Phi. The boat took us around Ko Phi Phi Lei, the smaller of the islands, and stopped opposite Maya Bay (the beach where The Beach was filmed). We counted 16 speedboats parked up on that little stretch of sand – I reminded Chris that when we had arrived at Island 8 in the Similans to find 2 other boats moored there he thought it was rather busy! Our ferry then continued on to Ko Phi Phi Don. This island is shaped like 2 back to back crescent moons, with a strip of sand ‘joining’ the two halves. On one side of the isthmus is the bustling port where ferries and supply boats (this is an island with no bridge/car ferry – everything is brought by boat) jostle for room with the small longtails, whereas if you walk 50m across to the other bay, it’s calm and peaceful with a handful of sun-seekers on the white sand. Turning right off the boat is a little ‘high street’ of ticky-tacky shops, tour agents and food stalls to get what you need for your onward journey. We had about an hour between boats to do just that as our luggage was swiftly transferred to the Ko Lanta ferry and we then motioned the universal hand-to-mouth signal of needing something to eat.

Classic Ko Phi Phi Don shot:

Wednesday’s supply boat:

An hour later we arrived at Ko Lanta and got a tuk-tuk (on Lanta the moto has a sidecar arrangement) to the Lanta Castaway Resort. What a gem. A little bungalow with an extra bed, beach bar and restaurant with good cheap food, and a gorgeous beach to play on – just perfect. So we did that for 3 days – Chris went out diving for a day, we got a massage and we did manage to leave the site for dinner once!

Ko Lanta:

At 10pm on our last evening we got a call saying that they had changed the Ko Lipe ferry time for the following morning from 10.30am to 9am, so our leisurely start was abandoned! Luckily Darin from Castaway was able to give us a lift to the pier (thank you!) and we were hustled aboard what appeared to be a snorkelling day trip. There were a couple of other stowaways as well who hopped off at Ko Ngai, we were then told to get off at Ko Mook where the ‘big boat’ would pick us up! Hmmmm…As our toes touched the sand of Charlie’s Beach a man in a longtail said ‘Ko Lipe??’ ‘Yes’ we replied and climbed aboard as he revved the engine. It occurred to us that all may not be going to plan as a) we couldn’t see a ‘big boat’ anywhere, and b) another couple on the longtail were trying to get to Phuket (in the opposite direction). About an hour later we arrived at Trang – the regional port - where eventually the ‘big boat’ did turn up. We made it to Ko Lipe 3 hours late but goodness it was worth the wait, perfect tropical island stuff.

Ko Lipe – Pattaya Beach!:

The following afternoon we had a complete TIT moment - at 3pm we were strolling across to the other side of the island to the office to double check all was OK for our departure in 24 hours time and were told ‘either go now or maybe Tues, but no boat as scheduled on your ticket for tomorrow’, I don’t know why this surprises me anymore?! So by 4pm Chris had biked back to the bungalow, packed up, put it all in a longtail and brought all the kit around to the other beach! Of course it was another 1.5 hrs before the boat actually turned up, but hey, there must be worst views to look at while you wait:

Ko Lipe – Sunrise Beach:

At last a small speedboat hove into view and that’s how we ended up in Langkawi a day early in the dark at 9pm, while a man drove off into the night with our passports to get them stamped! Luckily he returned true to his word, and even more luckily the hotel we were planning to stay in had room for another night as the girls by this time were feeling very tired and unsettled. They refused to move far beyond the pool for the next two days – we did entice them out to a playground and some dinner, and we managed to see the giant eagle of Langkawi, which SHOULD have welcomed us to the island, if we had come on the original boat as planned. Hey-ho, the girls were pretty impressed despite saying they didn’t want to trek all the way down there as they could see it from our hotel window (true)!

The Eagle of Langkawi:

From here it was a short hop by plane to Singapore where we caught up on laundry (at the wonderfully quirky 7th Storey Hotel), shook the sand out of everything and then went for a spin on the Singapore Flyer – like the London Eye but, of course, bigger! It opened just over a week ago and as a result was a complete bargain – kids are FREE til the end of April, plus we got a pod to ourselves as it was so quiet! We got great views over the city that we have previously explored at length and it was really cool picking out different landmarks, and the bizarre floating football pitch!

View from the Singapore Flyer:

See ya
All love CRFS xxxx

The day after we got back from the Simians’ was Songkran – the Thai New Year’s Day. Chris had gone out for a day’s diving in the lovely islands we had just left, but the girls and I stayed behind and joined in the celebrations a little. Songkran is all about WATER. There are Buddhist rituals involving water and cleansing in the temples, but mostly the country turns into a big water fight – no bad thing considering day-time temperatures are pushing 40 degrees at this time of year. In Khao Lak it wasn’t as crazy as Chiang Mai or Bangkok, but there were still plenty of pick-ups driving around with big drums of water and buckets, Super-Soakers and anything else to bail with. So we ventured out armed to the teeth (read ‘with one little water pistol and the beach bucket’) and got wet. Not as wet as Chris though, returning from diving a few hours later when hostilities had clearly stepped up a gear, completely drenched!

Khao Lak is a laid back little settlement gradually healing itself from a terrible tragedy. Three + years ago on Dec 26th 2004, without any warning at all, an 11 metre high tsunami slammed into the three beaches that make up Khao Lak killing over 4000 people. The Phang Nga province in which the resort sits was by far the worst affected area in Thailand (by comparison, on Ko Phi Phi 2000 souls were lost and on Phuket 900 were recorded dead or missing) and the beachfront was obliterated. If you're in any doubt about what the power of a wave can do, take a look at the pictures on the website of the Cousin Resort, where we stayed in Khao Lak (just click on the link in red below):

Cousin Resort 'before' and 'after' pictures.

Most of the homes and businesses damaged in the tsunami were unable to claim any insurance payouts, as although they were covered for fire and flood, very few were covered for earthquake (not being in an area where damage is caused by them), which is what the tsunami was ruled as, and so all rebuilding has all been with volunteer help, or by loans. Some places were simply abandoned which is quite spooky, seeing shells of buildings and empty levelled plots of land with tiled swimming pools still hollowed out. The day after New Year it was time to leave Khao Lak and on our way out of town we stopped at the Police Boat – a symbol of remembrance and memorial since it was washed ashore by the wave, the captain miraculously managing to keep it upright as it came to rest about 2kms from the beach. (We tried to imagine that conversation: 'what's your position, over'/ 'currently just behind the 7-Eleven, over.) There’s a little stall there with pictures and stories which was enough for Fin (who knows all about the tsunami having watched the story unfold on the BBC in Nana’s sitting room one Boxing Day) to understand that it had actually happened where she was standing.

Khao Lak Police Boat:

We liked Khao Lak and its quiet sleepy atmosphere, its lovely uncrowded beaches and its great Italian restaurant down the street, plus those lovely little islands just off-shore.
See ya
All love CRFS xxxx

The next day we were headed to the beautiful Similan Islands for an overnight stay, so we packed a spare pair of undies and lugged the rest of our bags to reception, only to be told that as they weren’t busy at the moment we could’ve left them in our room – so we lugged them all the way back again! After a 15 minute transfer to the Thap Lamu pier we were checked in and got on a big speedboat for the 1.5 hour transfer out to the islands. The boat was very fast and very loud and the sea was a flat calm so the kids thought it was great! The Similan Islands are a protected National Park Area (which is a big deal in Thailand) so boat numbers are strictly limited and all fishing is banned. There are 9 islands in the chain, called Number 1-9 to keep things easy, although they have names as well. Islands 1,2 &3 are reserved for turtles and their egg laying, so visitors are not allowed. We first arrived at Island 5 (Ko Ha) for a bit of snorkelling which was stunning, amazing to get into 20 metres of water and be able to see the bottom. Lots of pretty fish and the girls are now practised snorkelers and so leapt in and donned fins and mask (we even managed to fins small enough for Sadie so she was delighted). Then we were taken to Island 4 where the National Park HQ sits on a powdery white sand beach (tough job eh?). We checked into to our camouflage tent for the night and then sat on the beach and ate a lovely Thai lunch that had come on the boat with us.

Our home for the night:

After lunch the speedboat was reserved for the day-trippers and we were transferred to a big traditional double decker boat, with lots of space for the 10 or so of us staying the night! As we climbed aboard we saw our first turtle! So cool just hanging around at the back of the boat. We pottered off to Island 9 (Ko Ba Ngu) for a little snorkelling which again was awesome. It’s lovely going with the girls as they ‘squeak’ through their snorkels when they see something! When we got back on the boat it turned out it was low on fresh water and asked if we would mind being left on the beach of Island 8 (Ko Similan) for an hour while they went to fill it up, oh go on then…

Island No.8 (Ko Similan):

As we motored back to Island 4 we had a delicious supper served and were transferred to our beach around 7pm. The tent was fine with intact mozzie nets although it came with some rather questionable bedding (tip to those heading there, take your own!), but for 1 night we didn’t mind too much. The only thing it didn’t come with was a fan which was a shame as it was sooo hot! It is hitting the high 30’s here during the day now, and the nights are a bit cooler but it’s all relative. After telling the children to imagine being at either grandparents’ house in the middle of winter they quickly fell asleep and we all had a good night.
As well as the lovely coral reefs and gorgeous white sand beaches the islands have forested interiors, so we spent a while in the morning having a look around the campsite. It’s amazing how quiet and deserted everything is at 7am (!) although there’s always someone around - Sadie spotted this little guy waving at us:

Shortly after that there was a massive downpour and although the tent didn’t leak, we suddenly realised the groundsheet was ‘floating’ on a pool of water! We were taken back to the big boat for breakfast (another feast) and caught up with Kim and Dave, the couple who had spent the night on the boat in one of the tiny crew cabins – by all accounts as hot as the tent, although no mozzies! The turtle from yesterday then reappeared and this time we couldn’t resist getting in with him! The guys on the boat threw in some melon skin and greens for his breakfast which he seemed to appreciate, and the girls swam around squeaking through their snorkels again as he was just so gorgeous.

'Crush' right next to the boat:

For the rest of the day we snorkelled on Islands 7 (swimming with turtle no.2), 8 and 9, ate and relaxed, although Fin and Dave did get quite energetic with a diving competition off the back of the boat (1m platform) – she beat him on the classic dive, tumble jump and the penguin dive, but I think he won the back flip round! Later we re-joined the speedboat for the trip back to Khao Lak, very sandy and salty, tired and over-exposed but so happy to have seen the amazing Similan Islands.
See ya
All love CRFS xxxx

You know you want it, so here it is ……….. another train, minibus, plane, tuk-tuk, taxi and shanks’ pony trip, scream if you want to go faster.

We were travelling from Vang Vieng via Vientiane, Udon Thani, Bangkok and Surat Thani before reaching our final destination of Khao Lak. A straightforward journey to be sure including a border crossing that will take us about 30hrs, with little opportunity for a fresh pair of jocks. I know you all wish you could have been there.

Our journey starts as it has been mostly over the past few days - hot, even early in the morning. We’re packed and sat waiting our luxury transport (!) to Vientiane in the lobby of the Elephant Crossing. Being familiar with approximate timing we have become accustomed to watching the allotted time pass and typically wait a further 30 before takeoff. Not such a problem as the girls were happy playing tag with the others, while Rachel scrambled through the interweb trying to book a night having received an e-mail advising the hostelry of choice was full.

The van arrives, the driver gesticulates at me 4 which I took to mean he was expecting us. The luggage was heaved to the roof, I find nothing beats a good hernia work out first thing in the morning, and they were lashed down. We climb aboard to fill the last of the seats before stopping again to pick up 2 more punters, now all nicely crammed in 3 up front on 2 ½ seats and all available space inside occupied it was time to …….. oh and stop at a couple of random shacks and the petrol station.

Interestingly the 'turn your engine off', 'no smoking' and 'no mobile' sign was posted to the column by the petrol pump but I guess since the engine wasn’t turned off, the driver got out to have a smoke and was using the phone …. these are oviously more guidelines rather than anything important.

There isn’t a lot of tarmac road in Laos however the bit between Vang Vieng and Vientiane is, what it isn’t though is straight or flat. The undulations in the road, combined with the air conditioning was resulting in additional strain on the engine that meant something had to give, so not for the first time on this trip I began to melt. The bends only meant the driver had plenty of opportunity to brake hard into the corner sending you either for an unprompted close up view out the window or the opportunity, in my case, of sticking your head in some large co-travellers pit. 3hrs later (27hrs to go) we arrive in Vientiane a little nauseous from having tried to entertain ourselves with games, a little reading, spellings and written maths while Schumacher propelled us forward .

Sustenance needed, we pause to refuel a couple of rounds of the usual (chicken fried rice x3 / chicken noodles / mix fruit juice / coke / sprite x 3). Refuelled if not refreshed we thought we’d mix it up and go a little freestyle, not knowing if there was a bus anytime soon we negotiate a tuk tuk transfer us to the centre bus station to find out. Luck holding up there was a bus we could take right through to Udon Thani in Thailand, Happy Days!
Now for those who have crossed a land border by bus before will tell you (friends of ours unfortunately learnt the hard way!!) TAKE YOUR BAGS WITH YOU, whatever you do don’t leave them on the bus!!!

So making our way to Immigration having left our bags on the bus ……. It was all OK having learnt this valuable lesson ourselves, before alighting I entered into a game of charades with the driver gesticulating like a deranged person looking a lot like the Hunchback of Notre Dame ‘the bells!’. The driver didn’t want to take his turn or he was pretending to drive the bus, I could tell his heart wasn’t in it – up shot being you don’t have to take your bags off, and we arrived safely in Udon Thani, luggage intact.

Intact luggage en route to Udon Thani hotel:

Next morning and a plane journey to Bangkok arriving at 12:00hrs only 6 hrs to kill before the overnight train, hazzaaar! Weary at the prospect of heaving 40 odd kilos around for the next few hours we stop at the information counter to enquire if we can hire a room in a local hotel by the hour, my reputation building exercise on the last overnight train paid off and I was offered a room ‘$5 for long time’!! It was a classy establishment but we could swim and get the Golden Arches delivered before having to make our way to the station.

Have spent time scoping the station out before we winged it, collected my extra kit (all intact, in fact I’m sure they slipped in a couple of extra kilos). Despite the invitation we decided not to hang out with Mr & Mrs Roach and their son Cock again and we made our way to the train.

Ah, this must be our train:

Now consummate professionals at this we located our carriage and bunks without much of a tado, however we did need to undertake the appropriate testing of the ladders again – all passed OK. Despite the potential this journey passed uneventfully arriving in Surat Thani an hour late again with no onward travel arranged, that be dammed we had a spring in our step, the wind in our hair and the sun on our back (along with 40 kilos !!) A quick investigation and equally quick negotiation we secured breakfast and a driver for our onward journey. ½ an hour later we jettisoned off head long towards Khao Lak with only a brief stop for a photo before arriving at Cousins Resort 2 hours later - our home for the next couple of nights.

We are all OK - thank you all so much for your messages of support,

See ya
All love CRFS xxxx

I see trees of green........ red roses too
I see em bloom..... for me and for you
And I think to myself.... what a wonderful world.
I see skies of blue..... clouds of white
Bright blessed days....dark sacred nights
And I think to myself .....what a wonderful world.
The colors of a rainbow.....so pretty ..in the sky
Are also on the faces.....of people ..going by
I see friends shaking hands.....sayin.. how do you do
Theyre really sayin......i love you.
I hear babies cry...... I watch them grow
Theyll learn much more.....than Ill never know
And I think to myself .....what a wonderful world
Wonderful World – Louis Armstrong

Usually yes, but at the moment, not so much. A couple of days ago we learned that Chris’ Auntie Cayti had died in New Zealand and now we are just sad and blue. I know that we will feel better in a few days, but everything is a little bit tough at the moment, and the water fights, fireworks and paper lanterns for the Thai New Year celebrations seem to be too much of a contradiction.

Cayti moved to New Zealand 3 decades ago when living on the other side of the world meant airmail letters and expensive sporadic phone-calls with your loved ones back in Blighty. Chris’ mum and grandmother were as determined as Cayti herself to keep the family in constant contact and Chris knew his cousins very well through letters and photographs, and from a couple of visits they managed to make to England. Recently we have seen much more of them – Cayti and at least one of the children have been over to the UK most years, and of course the interweb has changed the way everybody communicates.

However Cayti and her gorgeous children became extra special to us on our last RTW trip 10 years ago when we spent 6 months in New Zealand. She became our parent when our own were 15,000 miles away, doing our laundry, having us ‘home’ to stay for the weekend, and we felt settled and happy towards the end of our two years away, becoming part of family life and hanging out with (the then) little Becci and Ben, hearing about school, and learning bizarre eating habits and cool new Kiwi swear words off them.

Just ten months ago, in the summer of 2007, Cayti was in England, chatting about all the cool things we could do together when we got down to NZ – soon after she got home she was diagnosed with cancer. By September when we left we hoped that modern cancer treatments would give her some time and energy, and thought we would need to adapt our time in New Zealand to how she felt at the time. She died on April 12th 2008 and was just 52 years old. We last saw her laughing and joking, happy and unaware of what lay ahead, and thank goodness that’s how we’ll remember her – Cayti making us laugh with her ridiculous Monty Python ‘penguin’ sketch impersonation, Cayti and her very neat ordered frog collection, Cayti and the free postcard craze we had going for a while, Cayti extolling the virtues of motherhood with helpful tips on mopping up vomit, and Cayti, always so proud of all things Kiwi, and the thoughtful little presents that appeared on the doormat, along with the glorious NZ calendars every year.

It is horrible to be away from our family right now, unable to comfort them, and it feels almost unbearable to be going to New Zealand without her, only lightened by our excitement at seeing the (now grown up!) guys again. We miss you beautiful special Cayti, and promise now more than ever, to make the most of life’s journey, as you never quite know where the destination will be.

Take care of all of yours,
All love CRFS xxxx

I know that it’s a wonderful world but I can’t see it right now,
I thought that I was doing well but I just want to cry now,
Well I know that it’s a wonderful world, from the sky down to the sea,
But I can only see it when you’re here, here with me.
Wonderful World - James Morrison